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 June 2008 - In this Issue:
 
 
 Ice Cream, Sorbets, and Granitas

If you're lucky, you have fond childhood memories of homemade ice cream.  If you're not that lucky, it's not too late to repair the situation for yourself and your children.  Homemade ice cream is simply divine.  It's quite different than anything found in a carton, or the versions located at a primo boutique scoop store.  It tastes fresh because it is fresh, free of any unrecognizable ingredients.  In this issue we'll identify the differences between our favorite frozen sweet treats, discuss the science that makes it all possible, and offer several essentials for making and enjoying your own homemade frozen concoction.

Four Cups of Ice Cream

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Plan some fun with a cooking class at Kitchen Window! We have an incredible line-up of topics, menus, and instructors. There are, literally, dozens of choices to choose from. Our classes make a great outing with friends, visiting relatives and a wonderful date night.

Knife Sharpening Clinic - #2520- Sunday, June 29, 10:00 a.m.
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 Featured Ice Cream Products

Embellish your enjoyment of summer with ice cream products that bring some fun, some practicality, or some old-fashioned memories to the experience!

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 Frozen Perfections
Among the frozen perfections we enjoy, ice cream is often the first choice. Ice Cream in Waffle CupBut, there are many cousins of our frozen favorite that are equally enjoyable.  If you've ever wondered about the differences, here are some highlights and key terms:

Ice Cream - Ice cream is made with milk, cream, sugar, sometimes eggs, and various flavorings.  To be called ice cream, it must have at least 10% butterfat, and have no more than 50% air content.  This air content, known in the biz as "overrun," is a key differentiating ingredient and not listed on the label. Premium ice creams have a higher butterfat content, up to 18%, and much, much less air. 

Sherbet in Petal CupsSherbet - The familiar, pastel sherbets are made with milk, sugar, and occasionally eggs, but use sweet fruit juice or puree as a substitute for the cream.  Sherbets have a low butterfat content between 1-2%, and often a greater amount of sugar to keep it from freezing too solidly.

Sorbet - Sorbets are fruit-based without any cream, milk, or eggs.  The fruit, or fruit essence, is combined with sugar, water, and often lemon juice.  The tangy result is totally refreshing!  In fact, sorbets are often used as a palate cleanser Sorbetbetween courses.  Nutritionally, sorbets offer a no-fat, lower calorie alternative to ice cream.  Use fresh fruit; canned or cooked fruit will not have the same impact.

Sorbetto - Like a sorbet, sorbetto is made from fresh fruit, sugar, lemon juice and water.  Originating as a southern Italian sorbet, this version features more fresh fruit and less water.  The resulting dense flavor features a softer, less "icy" consistency.

Gelato - This northern Italian version of ice cream shares the same ingredient list as ice cream, but in different proportions.  GelatiGelato uses more milk and eggs, but less cream (5 - 8%) than ice cream (10-18%).  Gelato flavorings are intense, as though the essence or a reduction of the flavoring has been used.  The gelato texture is dense; the method for freezing gelato minimizes the amount of air incorporated in the final product.  Churning injects some air in the gelato, but no extra air is added as is the case with most ice creams.  By definition, gelato may be no more than 35% air.  Gelato's density and lower butterfat content requires a slightly higher storing temperature than ice cream.

Lemon GranitaGranita
- With ingredients similar to a sorbet, granitas differ in the way they turn from liquid to frozen, a process known as "still freezing."  The fruit mixture is poured in a shallow pan and left to chill in the freezer.  Every 20 minutes the mixture is stirred with a fork.  The result is a slushy mixture with flaky, ice crystals.

Frozen Yogurt - The frozen version of this cultured dairy product is another lower fat Semifreddoalternative to ice cream. Sweetened yogurt takes the place of the dairy fat in creating an appropriate texture that's not too firm.

Semifreddos - Translated from its Italian origins, semifreddo means "half-cold."  The ingredients are similar to ice cream, but air is incorporated through the inclusion of whipped eggs, meringue, or whipped cream.  The mixture is "still frozen" in a mold without being disturbed.  The resulting texture is similar to a frozen mousse.

 

 The Science of Ice Cream

Regardless of your frozen preference, the process and science of making your own list of favorites is quite similar.  The target is a great taste and a perfect texture.  The ice cream should be sweet and flavorful; the texture should be smooth, semi-firm, and melt in the mouth without any waxy feel.  To accomplish this, the ingredients must be fresh, first quality, and in the right proportions.  The freezing process must produce a consistent, fine, icy crystal.

Ice Cream IngredientsThe Ingredient Mix - In its simplest form, ice cream is made from milk, sugar, cream and flavorings.  A good ice cream needs some of each of these ingredients to freeze well and taste good.  The milk provides proteins essential for creating a structure that captures air bubbles and separates fat globules.  The sugar provides sweetness and a lower freezing temperature that keeps the ice cream from freezing rock hard.  The cream supplies the characteristic richness.  Butterfat, the type of fat found in cream and all dairy products, is a complex fat whose components melt at different temperatures, producing a cascading effect as it passes through the mouth.  If the ice cream contains eggs, it is known as a French custard-style; without eggs it is termed Philadelphia-style.  With the sweet cream mixtures as a canvas, imaginative flavorings provide the unique tastes we've come to love. 

Prefrozen Insert ChurningThe Freezing Process - After the ingredients are mixed, the freezing process will determine the final result.  A cold mixture that has been refrigerated for at least two hours will facilitate freezing.  Regardless of the machine used for freezing the ice cream, cold temperatures are transferred indirectly to the mixture through some type of metal container.  (See types of ice cream machines below). Continuous movement of the mixture while in contact with the freezing metal is pivotal to the process. Known as churning, or spinning, a paddle or dasher stands in the center of the mixture and connects to a crank.  Turning the crank moves the dasher's blade along the insides of the metal container forcing newly formed ice crystals back into the mixture.  The ice cream's temperature is lowered evenly and efficiently while allowing only the smallest of ice crystals to form.  Within 20-30 minutes, the mixture grows more difficult to crank as it freezes and solidifies.  The ice cream may be enjoyed at this point with its soft texture, or the container may be placed in the freezer for a few hours to harden or ripen to a firmer texture.

The Other Stuff - The ingredients list on commercial ice creams sport words like monoglyceride glycerol monosterate, guar gum, carageenan, methylcellulose, xanthan gum, etc.etc.  These additions are food chemists' attempts to imitate a natural texture and mimic the butterfat feel in our mouths.  "Economy ice creams" can be up to half air and as little as 10% butterfat.  This strategy forces the use of stabilizers and emulsifiers to create a desirable product.  With homemade ice cream, we get to skip all these additives.

 Making and Serving Ice Cream
Ice & Salt Style Ice Cream Makers
 
 
   

Prefrozen Insert Style Ice Cream Makers
 
 

Compressor Style Ice Cream Makers
 
 
   

Making homemade ice cream is easier and less expensive than you might think, and today's machine options facilitate a nearly foolproof result:

Ice Cream Makers - There are three basic types of freezing mechanisms: (1)  ice and salt, (2) pre-frozen inserts, and (3) compressor units.

Ice and Salt - This method may be the most familiar to the old pros among us.  A specialized bucket is outfitted with an internal, metal, cylindrical container designed to seal the ice cream mixture and set in the center of the bucket.  The cylinder is surrounded by alternating layers of ice and rock salt.  The salt melts the ice to an efficient liquid that has a temperature below the freezing point. 

A hand or electric-powered crank fits on top of the cylinder and bucket, and turns the internal paddle.  The coldness of the ice slurry transfers through the metal container to freeze the ice cream mixture.

Prefrozen Inserts - Several designs of ice cream makers utilize a pre-frozen insert.  These reusable inserts are sealed, double-walled, metal containers with liquid inside.  The insert is frozen ahead of time, then assembled with a hand or electrical cranking system.  The cold transfers from the frozen liner similarly to the old-fashioned ice and salt method.  One insert will make one batch of ice cream, then will need to be refrozen.  Many fans choose to have an extra insert available, and at least one in the freezer at all times.

Compressor Units - Serious ice cream aficionados may wish to consider free-standing freezing units.  These machines generate the cold, freezing temperatures with a compressor-based system similar to a refrigerator's freezing system.  The machine has a container for the ice cream mixture, an internal paddle, and a continuous freezing element.  Batch after batch of ice cream may be made without any refreezing of an insert, or replacement of ice and salt.

Scoops

Scoops, Spades, and Spoons - Whatever your frozen pleasure, dishing it up has bent more than one spoon at some point in time.  Great scoops and spades in all colors and shapes are available to easily handle the task.  Personalize your choice by finding a scoop that fits your hand, leverages your arm muscles, and thermally resists sticking to the ice cream.  Showoff your talents by serving up your homemade delight in new ice cream dishes!

 

 Kitchen Window's Ice Cream Tips
Ice Cream in Muffin Pan

Tip #1: Add fresh fruit to your favorite ice cream base by pureeing sweet, ripe fruit, and adding it to a cooled milk mixture. If you like chunks of fruit in your ice cream, you can avoid rock-hard pieces by macerating the fruit; sprinkle one or two tablespoons of sugar over the diced fruit and let set for a few minutes until juice appears. The sugar withdraws some of the water from the fruit, and the fruit absorbs some of the sugar.  With this method, the fruit chunks will remain softer in the final product. Rock Salt

Tip #2:   Save time when scooping ice cream for a la mode presentations.  Dish single portions into a muffin pan and cover with a freezer-grade plastic wrap.  The ice cream stays cold and is quickly dished at serving time.  A silicone muffin pan allows the ice cream scoops to "pop out" with ease.

Tip # 3:  Use rock salt when making ice cream with ice cubes.  Rock salt dissolves more slowly, and the larger granules stick to the ice surfaces instead of slipping to the bottom as a fine grain salt would do.

 Q & A's

Q:   When and how did the ice cream cone come to be?
A:   Legend has it that the ice cream cone was an invention of convenience at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair.  Ice Cream ConeThe ice cream vendor ran out of ice cream dishes when a nearby waffle vendor came to the rescue with a waffle rolled into a cone shape.  Flat-bottomed cake cones were designed and manufactured in the 1940's for the Dairy Queen chain. 

Q:   My ice cream has a lot of ice crystals on the surface and an off taste.  What's wrong?
A:   Ice cream's freshness depends on good storage techniques throughout production, shipping, and while at home.  Ice crystals form on the top surface when the ice cream has been exposed to warmer temperatures, and then has been refrozen.  The slightly melted surface separates into water, milk fat and solids.  This situation occurs more quickly for ice creams without stabilizers.  Ice cream easily picks up freezer odors.  If the storage container no longer provides a tight seal, top the ice cream with freezer-grade plastic wrap to decrease odor absorption.

Q:  Can I freeze a container of yogurt and make frozen yogurt?
A:  Not exactly.  A typical yogurt contains too much water and not enough sugar; the result would be rock hard.  You can make frozen yogurt with a combination of plain, whole milk yogurt that has been drained for several hours to remove excess water.  (If you live near a Middle Eastern market, lebane is this thick, drained yogurt).  Add sugar, any desired flavors, and freeze.

Q:   Is there gelatin in gelato?
A:   No.  Despite the seemingly common word form, the word "gelato" derives from the Italian word for "frozen."  However, gelatin is sometimes found in lesser ice creams as a texture enhancer.  The gelatin absorbs extra water and prevents the formation of large ice crystals.  Most gelatins used in ice cream-making are plant-based rather than traditional animal-based gelatins.

Four Gelato

Q:  What causes an ice cream headache?
A:   An ice cream headache occurs when intense coldness contacts the roof of your mouth.  That area has nerve endings that signal the brain that it needs to warm up.  Blood vessels in the area dilate immediately in response to the situation.  The dilation creates pressure, or the headache.  Slowing down and taking smaller bites will prevent an ice cream headache.

 Vosges Exotic Ice Cream

Homemade ice cream is an easy and delicious hot weather treat. While the tried-and-true favorites like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry hit the mark for simple summertime pleasure, if you crave something more exotic, the creations from Vosges Haut Chocolat combine worldly flavors with world-class ice cream.

Vosges founder Katrina Markoff uses the finest ingredients from around the world. Her goal is to create a luxury chocolate experience while bringing about awareness of the world’s cultures by fusing a gamut of indigenous spices, flowers, roots, herbs and liqueurs with premium chocolate. Now she brings this sensibility to the world of ice cream

If you’ve tasted Vosges chocolates, you can imagine the tantalizing mixture of flavors that these exquisite chocolatiers have concocted for their line of specialty ice cream. The unique combinations of spices with high quality ingredients work magic on your taste buds. The flavors play with each other in a special alchemy that creates a lovely dance of pleasure in your mouth. . "I wanted to shake up the ice cream market with some radical flavors,” says Katrina. “My favorite at the moment is wattleseed.”

In addition to sourcing only the best ingredients, Vosges also closely monitors the manufacturing of the ice cream. It is produced in Pennsylvania, in a specially-equipped facility. Vosges uses vat pasteurization in making its ice cream. The ice cream is pasteurized at 145 degrees for 30 minutes. Vosges is one of only two companies in the United States that still use vat pasteurization. Most ice cream companies use flash pasteurization, done in 15 seconds at 161 degrees. The longer vat pasteurization time allows the flavors and herbs to steep for full flavor, almost like infusing tea, and gives the ice cream a lovely rounded custard-like mouthfeel.

Kitchen Window is the only Twin Cities outlet to carry Vosges ice cream. We’re pleased to offer all four flavors for your summer enjoyment. Stop by for a taste.

Red Fire Ice Cream
ancho & chipotle chillies + Ceylon cinnamon
+ dark chocolate ice cream

As dark chocolate ice cream chills your lips, ancho and chipotle chillies impart subtle warmth while amber cinnamon lingers. Serve on its own, with a sprinkle of red fire pecans, spoon atop a bowl of fresh strawberries or splash with some soy milk and make a soy shake. Don't forget to garnish with a red chili pepper.

Naga Ice Cream
sweet Indian curry + fresh young coconut
+ creamy custard ice cream
This Haute-Glace is a must-try for the adventurous sort! Sweet Indian curry is a mélange of turmeric, ginger, cumin, clove, chillies and more. A perfect intermezzo between courses or paired with flourless chocolate cake or topped with a rich chocolate sauce.

Pandan Ice Cream
pandan leaf + dark chocolate ice cream
This dark green leaf of sublime flavor is used in the Asian kitchen just as the vanilla bean is in the Western. Notes of pine nut, vanilla wafer and tree nuts characterize this most sensual of leaves. Serve as is or pandan is a perfect pairing with banana fritters, brownies or sticky rice pudding.

Wattleseed Ice Cream
Aboriginal wattleseed + roasted macadamia nuts + creamy custard ice cream
The chocolate brown Aboriginal wattleseed is scented with the complex flavors of cacao, coffee, hazelnut and vanilla. You might try serving Wattleseed Ice Cream with toasted brioche or chocolate cake...or scoop some in a glass and pour a shot of espresso atop, to create an Italian affogato. Or, try as a float in your favorite dark beer!

 Cookbook Review

A Passion for Ice Cream, 95 Recipes for Fabulous Desserts by Emily Luchetti.  Photographs by Sheri Giblin.  Copyright 2006.  Published by Chronicle Books, San Francisco.

Deservedly, A Passion for Ice Cream has been awarded the coveted International Association of Culinary Professionals 2007 Award for Best Cookbook on a Single Subject.

Cookbook

If you love ice cream, but have never made your own, this book is a great place to start. If you are looking for new and exciting ice cream creations, this book will inspire you.  The cover photo is an irresistible invitation to pick up and open this book, and once inside you'll succumb to the wonderful creations, unique ideas, and novel presentations.  Ms. Luchetti provides a great instructional manual about all things ice cream, sorbet, sherbet and granita.  She helps us apply this knowledge with her offering of over 95 fabulous desserts.  Each frozen treat would be enough on its own, but their inclusion as "a principal" in these creative presentations supersedes the notion of "just ice cream for dessert."  Most of the recipes are lavishly illustrated with luscious, artistic photographs that make you wish for the spoils of the photo shoot.  In our opinion, the combination of text and photography qualify this cookbook as a "coffee table book" as well as an indispensable kitchen resource.

 

  Recipes - Ice Cream, Sorbets, and Granitas

This trio of recipes will introduce you to the making of homemade ice cream, sherbet, sorbet, and a granita.  Each concoction is perfect on its own, and certainly impressive in the suggested combination and presentation.

Gingersnap Lemon Ice Cream Sandwiches

This recipe features a French-style, custard-based ice cream.  The addition of eggs and the extra steps of heating the mixture prior to freezing make for a rich, rich ice cream.  The lemon zest and lemon juice, tempered with sweetness, bring a refreshing flavor that pairs perfectly with the gingersnap wafers.  The ice cream is perfect on its own, or as the filling for these elegant ice cream sandwiches. (Photograph courtesy of Chronicle Books).

View recipe
Gingersnaps with Lemon Ice Cream
Mango Soup with Coconut Sherbet and Strawberry Sorbet

As colorful as it is flavorful, this recipe is a visual and gustatory delight!  The coconut sherbet is made with both coconut milk and coconut cream churned to a smooth, bright white, frozen treat.  The fresh strawberry and lemon base makes a tangy strawberry sorbet.  Set scoops of both the coconut sherbet and strawberry sorbet in the mango puree.  The mango sauce matches and ideally complements the other flavors.  The mango mix can easily be frozen and transformed into a mango sorbet. (Photograph courtesy of Chronicle Books).

View recipe

Mango Soup

Iced Bellinis

The icy character of a granita is particularly refreshing on hot summer days.  This granita features a sparkling wine, and creates a perfect crystal-like topping for the peach sorbet.  This presentation seems destined for serving in a stemmed glass.  The peach sorbet is wonderful on its own, too.  Totally refreshing!

View recipe

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