Kitchen Window
July 2006

Eating Up the Tour De France
by: Stephen Cottrell

In Minnesota, we love the outdoors, and in addition to hunting, fishing, running, and skating, there are more bicycles per capita than in any other state in the US. Perhaps it’s no wonder that the first American to win the Tour De France, Greg LeMond, was from Wayzata. It was LeMond who first brought the famous French race into the American psyche. Tour De France fans were thrilled to watch on ABC news as the underdog American rocketed down the Champs-Elysées to overcome a 50-second deficit and defeat a horrified French champion, Laurent Fignon. Of course, in later years, the greatest of all the Tour Champions, Lance Armstrong, captured the hearts of millions of Americans -- a man who was expected to die of cancer that came back to not only win, but absolutely dominate, the world’s toughest race for seven years.

The French have always used the drama and global fascination that this 3000km bicycle race inspires to show off the beauty, culture, and variety of the nation’s regions. France has always touted itself as the center of cultural sophistication, and it’s impossible to have an unbiased mind and not be inspired by the art, philosophy, music, and of course food of France’s many regions. Following the tour, which is conveniently divided into stages, can be a fun excuse to bring friends together and explore some terrific regional French cuisine. You have plenty of chances to host a Tour de France tasting party during the race’s 23-day span starting July 1st. But because there are so many amazing French foods, we will focus on just 3 special delicacies inspired by “Le Tour.”

Stage 1 - Strasbourg to Strasbourg: With a nod to the soccer World Cup tournament in Germany, The Tour De France begins in Strasbourg this year. Strasbourg is in the Lorrain-Alsace region and is famous for vineyards, music, and perhaps most of all -- quiche! Strasbourg also sits on the foothills of the Vosges Mountains, an inspiring sight. So inspiring in fact, a Chicago chocolate company has named itself after these mountains. The Vosges chocolate company has been producing high quality flavor-infused bars and truffles for the last several years. Breaking rules in all the right ways, Vosges offers extraordinary bars between 40% to 60% cacao that blend far-out tastes, including wasabai (Black Pearl Bar), New Orleans chicory (Creole Bar), pasilla chilies (Oaxaca), and many others. This is chocolate for the chocolate lover.

Stage 1 Food recommendation: Vosges chocolate paired with unflavored Perrier water or espresso.

Riders to Watch: Watch for Australian Robbie McEwen (Davitmon-Lotto), and World Champion Tom Boonen (Quick Step) to fight it out in a sprint for the stage win in Strasbourg.

Stage 6 - Lisieux to Vitre: There is just no way to ride a bike through France without running into a cheese region. During this stage, the racers will pass through the Camembert countryside. According to legend, a Normandy farmer, Marie Harel, received the secret to making cheese from a priest who was traveling from Brie. Camembert cheese, similar in some ways to Brie, became popular in America partly because it could be shipped long distances in its famous wooden box.

Stage 6 food recommendation: Put together a cheese plate featuring Camembert with good quality baguettes. Also consider that Camembert is a powerful, strong smelling cheese, and therefore, it’s a great idea to cut some of that flavor with more delicate cheeses. Pear confit and/or walnut confit is also a good pairing with Camembert. To preserve the quality of the cheese, serve it on a slate or marble cheese board, which can be chilled. Slate or marble boards will hold a chill much longer than wooden or plastic ones.

Riders to Watch: Watch for the bicycle climbing specialist to attack the category 3 hill in Camembert, but this windy region may still favor the sprinters McEwen and Boonen at the finish in Vitre.

Stage 13 - Beziers to Montelimar: When thinking of French regional delicacies there is no way to ignore Montelimar. This stage is the longest of the Tour De France this year and it ends in a town famous for its almond trees and the development of nougat candy. Nougat as a candy was developed and perfected in Montelimar, which is considered the nougat capital of the world. This product, made from almonds, beaten egg whites, and honey or sugar, is far different than the fructose invention added to many American candy bars claiming to have nougat. Bottom line: If you have never tried “Nougat de Montelimar” you simply haven’t lived yet.

Stage 13 food recommendation: Have a party and make your own “Nougat de Montelimar,” using Bruce Weinstein’s The Ultimate Candy Book as your guide. You’ll be surprised how easy it is! Or, as a less hands-on but equally delicious alternative, you can purchase nougat under several brand names in specialty candy stores in the U.S.

Riders to Watch: Keep an eye out for American Chris Horner, who loves to sneak away on long stages for a shot at the win!

Well, if you haven’t found any inspiration here, there are still 17 other stages to supply great ideas for a Tour De France culinary adventure. Perhaps the best part about the tour is the great opportunity to learn more about regional delicacies, and a good excuse to bring friends together! They say the favorite rider to win the overall race this year is Italian Ivan Basso. You know, there is a lot of good Italian food out there too…